What a difference a sunken ship makes. Last year I would pose the question of Korean reunification to my students and nearly all of them agreed that Korea must be one nation. The students would explain that families are separated and that people were starving. In general the students showed a strong interest in a peaceful and united peninsula. I posed the question of reunification hours ago to my middle school classes. The result: 17-1 not in favor.
I was quite shocked. The reasons against one Korea were almost completely consistent with one another. All seventeen (in three different classes) pointed out that North Korea was communist and South Korea was a democracy. These words quite honestly are above most of the pupils vocabulary and it makes me wonder if there is a propaganda machine working overtime on opinion in South Korea. All of the negative responders also spoke of how poor North Korea was and that reunification would impact their current lifestyle. They made their speeches with indifference to the plight of neighbors once held dear along with a rather unkorean desire not to share. It was really odd. As I said, three different classes gave virtually the same response. There appeared to be no copying of other's opinions.
The one boy who spoke in favor of reunification was quite well spoken. His ideas were well thought out. He spoke of peace, helping those in need, reuniting families, and regaining lost elements of Korean culture. Interestingly he noted that it would be nice to be able to exit South Korea via an automobile.
If you are teaching on the peninsula currently I am really curious to learn how your students respond to the proposal. Please take some time and let me know your results and thoughts if you please.
May 13, 2010
May 10, 2010
Burying the Dead
If you have ever traveled along a Korean highway you are certain to have noticed burial mounds scattered across the landscape. If you have seen a cemetary I would be surprised. I have never seen a graveyard in my travels here. I used to believe that these were ancient burial sites and was shocked at how numerous they were. Now I know that many are returned to the Earth in this manner.
They are simply mounds of Earth. Some are more elaborate and have wooden or cement supports around the base. The majority are simply small circular hills with a stone marker in the vicinity. Most are impeccably lanscaped. Many families are kept together after death in a small plot of land which more often than not sits on the side of a mountain.
The deceased is placed into a simple coffin of six pieces of wood. The coffin is supposedly placed upright into the ground and covered with Earth. This is difficult for me to believe as most of them are not very large. The four sides of the coffin represent the cardinal directions. The top and bottom represent heaven and Earth. Most often the dead face South. Others face a landmark such as a mountain.
The eldest son has the job of burial site upkeep on Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving). I am not sure if a visit of the family is required on that holiday but I believe it is. Families tend to visit these sites several times a year. The mood of these visits is not somber; rather it seems to be a celebration of life. Picnics, games, and a joyous mood seem to be the rule for the most part. However, at some point the families will stand in silence and offer food and drink upon the grave. Yes, literally placing food and pouring drink onto and into the Earth.
Many Koreans now are simply cremated. The limited land and large population could not bear this practice ad infinitum. It should be noted that I have seen grave markers with the cross as well. It is not a practice entirely of any religion but rather uniquely Korean.
May 5, 2010
Ten quirky things about life in Korea
In no particular order:
1.) A sidewalk in the western world is reserved for pedestrians. Here they are a free for all and rather dangerous if you are not alert. Scooters and motorcycles will fly by you. Bicycles will crash at any time. The skill of a typical bike rider here is suprisingly poor given the obstacles they must face. In Iksan cars are a danger too. If no parking place is available a sidewalk is perfectly appropriate.
2.) Pink is a gender nuetral color.
3.) Holding hands amongst men is common. This is still extremely uncomfortable for me. I am far from a homophobe but I still feel queasy when a Korean man grasps my hand.
4.) Personal space is not respected. The best example I can give of this happened a short while back. I was walking down a low traffic sidewalk. A woman burst out of a building and bumped into me with force. Then she proceeded to open her umbrella which struck me in the chin as it expanded. She looked at me like I was in her way and hastily trodded off.
5.) Windows and doors will remain open in the dead of winter or the heat of summer regardless of heating or airconditioning units running.
6.) Right of way rules do not apply in traffic or on foot. If you are there first that is all that seems to matter.
7.) It really doesn't even matter if you are there first. A line is an arbitrary concept. If you are brazen enough to cut to the front no one will question you. That is if you are Korean. I have never attempted the feat. I suppose I am just weak.
8.) High heels and short skirts must be worn weather permitting or when the weather is only slightly permitting.
9.) Being so drunk that you cannot walk: A-OK.
10.) A church, a brothel, a bar, and a school will exist in the same three story building. The brothel will be in the basement.
1.) A sidewalk in the western world is reserved for pedestrians. Here they are a free for all and rather dangerous if you are not alert. Scooters and motorcycles will fly by you. Bicycles will crash at any time. The skill of a typical bike rider here is suprisingly poor given the obstacles they must face. In Iksan cars are a danger too. If no parking place is available a sidewalk is perfectly appropriate.
2.) Pink is a gender nuetral color.
3.) Holding hands amongst men is common. This is still extremely uncomfortable for me. I am far from a homophobe but I still feel queasy when a Korean man grasps my hand.
4.) Personal space is not respected. The best example I can give of this happened a short while back. I was walking down a low traffic sidewalk. A woman burst out of a building and bumped into me with force. Then she proceeded to open her umbrella which struck me in the chin as it expanded. She looked at me like I was in her way and hastily trodded off.
5.) Windows and doors will remain open in the dead of winter or the heat of summer regardless of heating or airconditioning units running.
6.) Right of way rules do not apply in traffic or on foot. If you are there first that is all that seems to matter.
7.) It really doesn't even matter if you are there first. A line is an arbitrary concept. If you are brazen enough to cut to the front no one will question you. That is if you are Korean. I have never attempted the feat. I suppose I am just weak.
8.) High heels and short skirts must be worn weather permitting or when the weather is only slightly permitting.
9.) Being so drunk that you cannot walk: A-OK.
10.) A church, a brothel, a bar, and a school will exist in the same three story building. The brothel will be in the basement.
Today
May 5th is Children's day in Korea. I am thankful for the break from work. I had my first kayagum lesson today and I feel very much like a child. The instrument is really cool and the technique appears rather simple. However, I feel a bit saddened by my lack of innate ability. I struggled very hard to get the first and most basic form of 'picking' down. It probably didn't help that my teacher did not speak English but I understood what was asked of me and had a really hard time doing it. I had to trim my thumbnail (I am a classical guitar player) in order to achieve the correct hand position. Anyhow, I worked very hard to do what the teacher expected with very little success. I realize music is practice and hope to acquire an instrument soon. The price is more than I can afford but I feel I cannot afford not to try to learn. If you know of anyone who has access to this instrument please contact me. I have every intention of becoming a kick ass kayagum player....
May 1, 2010
Soju - Not just for breakfast anymore
Soju first appeared in Korea in the 14th century. Quite similar to vodka it is distilled from starch. Soju is traditionally distilled from rice. However, modern commercial makers use many other sources such as potato, wheat, or barley. The first time I consumed this quiet asassin I didn't care for it. I certainly didn't care for the headache the next day. I personally use it a a mixer. Its subtle flavor virtually disappears when combined with anything fruity. I long to test it out with simple Kool-Aid - Oh Yeah! I imagine this mixture could cripple the entire alcohol industry with the cost effectiveness. Maybe I will open up a soju bar in the states. A bottle of soju sells for roughly a dollar and packs enough punch to knock you rather silly.
Rumor has it that formaldehyde is present in the beverage. I am reasonably sure that it is not included in the modern practice of making soju. I do know that the alcohol content used to be much higher. In the not too distant past the content was similar to whiskey or gin. This combination of high alcohol content and low price did not make a lot of business sense. The producers have colluded and the level present in most soju today is around 20%.
Many if not most Koreans drink it straight. The youth seems to be infatuated with soju cocktails. The way I roll is called So-Mack (소맥). Soju plus Mackju (beer) equals bliss for me.
Korean beer is quite horrible and this mix makes it much more than tolerable. This method is more common with older men. I have earned much drinking respect amongst these men for both my etiquette and desire for mass consumption. In Korea, one should never pour their own glass. So, when the time comes pour the soju into a shot glass and make it half full. Empty the shot glass into a beer glass. Then pour the beer into the larger vessel and stop at the lowest level of the colored advertising on the glass. This is called a "point" pour and from time to time will elate a member of the drinking party. It works out to be a ratio of roughly one part soju to three and a half parts beer. The first beverage of the night should be consumed in "one shot" fashion. The rest are at your leisure. Cheers! Gumbay! WeeHighYuh!
