Move over Susan Boyle. Korea's Got Talent!

The video tells it all.... I was completely blown away.

The Myth of July 7th (견우와 직녀)

I presented a copy of this story in Korean today to my students. I was born on the 7th of July and always wanted to learn this story. The following is the myth of 직녀 (Jiknyeo) and 견우 (Kyeonu) translated by several students and pieced together as best I could:

Long ago in a place among the stars lived Jiknyeo. This beautiful princess was daughter to the King of the Sky. Jiknyeo was a talented weaver of hemp and could make all sorts of beautiful things. Her work ethic was second to none. The King despised idleness and was proud of his daughters diligence. One day, the Sky King recognized her beauty. He decided she must marry and began searching for a worthy husband. Soon after Kyeonu was chosen as her mate. Like Jiknyeo, Kyeonu was hardworking. Although a simple cow herder, his animals were always well tended. He was also a prince!

The couple married and continued to excel in their diligence and hardwork. They were the most famous couple in all of the universe and loved each other very much. As time passed they began to enjoy spending time together more than their work. They would lay together for hours on end and stare at the stars. Jiknyeo's loom became covered in dust. Kyeonu's cows roamed freely and even trampled the King's garden. Their laziness displeased the Sky King greatly.

The angry King chose to separate the couple. He sent Kyeonu to a distant land in the East to tend his herd and Jiknyeo to a remote land in the West to continue her weaving. The couple cried and cried. They wept so many tears that the King, moved by their affection, agreed to let them meet once a year on the banks of the silvery river in the sky. On the seventh day of the seventh month they were permitted to view each other across the great river.

After a year of waiting the couple met alongside the river. The torment of seeing their love but unable to meet drove their weeping to torrents. They cried many tears which fell to Earth and flooded the planet. The inundation was so severe on Earth that the animals feared for their lives. The animals gathered together in search of a plan. A wise bear noted that if the rain was going to stop the couple must meet face to face. Suddenly a magpie came up with a plan. The bird asked all of his kind and all of the crow cousins to work in tandem and create a bridge over the silvery river in the sky. Without delay the birds flew off and turned the sky to blackness. With their wings spread these birds created a span over the river for the couples to meet.


The couple rushed toward one another and remained in embrace all night. They talked about the happy life they had and how painful it was to be separated. As dawn approached, they cried a few tears and walked back to the riverbanks.

According to the legend no crow or magpie has ever been seen since on July 7th. It is also said that after this day each summer you will notice many of the birds have fewer feathers on their heads due to the couple walking and resting upon them. There will also always be a sprinkle of rain as well from the lover's parting tears. Jiknyeo represents the star Vega. Kyeonu is Altair, and the great silvery river is the Milky Way. On the night of July 7th these two stars are truly visible overhead on either side of the Milky Way!


I am aware that the original myth must have regarded the date as the seventh day and seventh month of the lunar calendar. However, July 7th is the day of the event in modern practice. There are also similar myths from China and Japan which occur on the same day. As in many items of mutual tradition, the original source is not known.

Yeondongjin (영동진)

The Northeastern coast of South Korea is a remarkable place. I recently spent a weekend just north of the famed Jeongdongjin beach. It was a world unlike any other I had experienced on this peninsula. The ocean was a clean crisp blue which reminded me of the tropics. It just begged for me to take a swim. Turns out the water temperature is anything but tropical; more at arctic. It reminded me more of Lake Superior. I honestly couldn't stand it long. I guess I am getting old.


The trip consisted of three trains and roughly ten hours each way. It was a grind but well worth it. When you exit the train you are right on the beach! Most hotels offer pick up from the station as well. Our hotel was about two miles north of the station. There was no access to a store for groceries or supplies. Thankfully the woman who ran the hotel drove us to a large market roughly a half hour away. The next day her husband drove us into "town" and we spent a few hours walking along the beach and exploring the town proper. Unfortunately, when we were ready to return his car was occupied. The taxis were nowhere to be found which left only the choice of walking. We set out along the beach and a half mile later were unable to continue. The military is everywhere it seems! Guardposts and barbed wire fences stand aplenty in stark contrast to the natural beauty.


One U-turn and forty minutes later we decide to go underneath the railroad line which parallels the coast and walk along the fenceline rather than risk the speedy traffic along the rather narrow road. Another half mile later we reached another impass. An impenetrable spaghetti of barbed wire and metal. By now we are roasting. I coax my companion onto the railway where must first cross a 100 foot bridge. Thankfully no trains came! I knew that if we continued along the track it would be the quickest way back to the hotel and fifteen minutes and another degree of sunburn we arrived safely to our room.


The reason Jeongdongjin is famous is the sunrise. We happened to be here on the Summer Solstice so a four in the morning wake up was necessary. As we awoke the sky was lightening and we scampered across the railway toward the beach. But, wait, are you kidding? The gate to the beach was locked. We simply sat on a bench as the sky brightened and I snapped a few photos throught the fence. It must have been around five when the sight of soldiers appeared out of nowhere unlocking the gates and patrolling the beach.



With the gates open on to a completely deserted beach we went and were treated to a truly fabulous sunrise. All in all a great trip for me personally. If you are not so rugged I would recommend you book a hotel directly in town. Ours sat in an enclave of homes and small farms with no dining or market access. I liked the isolation. I had a great trip. Korea has so many layers and it was fun to be exposed to a new one.

Baek JiYoung (백지영) wants me!

This recording comes from a TV show here in Korea where several of the best vocalists performed in an elimination contest for best pipes. I love this woman. I know she loves me. It is only a matter of time before we meet. Enjoy my loose translation annotations!

Yang HyeonKyung양현경-Snow Fall눈이 내리면

On this Christmas morning I am reminded of my first months in Korea. I was rather destitute when I first came here. I had recently graduated college and had basically sacrificed everything to complete my degree in music. Anyone who knows me knows I am a music freak. Anyone who knows me knows that I adore the female voice. Anyone who knows me knows that serendipity is my best friend.

When I first arrived I made an investment in a manual tuned transistor radio (I know, big spender). I would finish work and slowly spin the wheel and see what the airwaves had to offer. There was a good deal to be heard. The classical radio station in Gwangju had some highlights when it would focus on native traditional music but it in my estimation is absolutely atrocious beyond that. I think I heard Vivaldi over two hundred times and was pretty much going crazy. I soon learned that you need not listen to the radio to hear popular music. The hits of the day blare constantly outside of storefronts and it would be truly impossible to hide from them if you wished.

One fine fall day I saw a giant boom box alongside a garbage pile. Score!! I took it home and sadly the CD player was broken. Fortunately the cassette player worked quite brilliantly! A few days later I crossed paths with an old man pushing a giant cart filled with CD's and cassettes. I stopped him and purchased two cassettes for about four dollars. The prizes were Japan's Pop Hits 2001 and a tape by a native folk artist named Yang HyeonKyung (양현경) upon his recommendation.

Upon inspection the Japanese recording was hideous. I was disappointed but quickly the folk singer's voice gave me great joy. I can't honestly say she is a very powerful singer but somehow her emotion comes out extremely well. I was overjoyed! As I listened to the tape repeatedly I began to notice the subtleties in the recordings and the depth of musicianship. A two dollar gold mine was echoing through my room.

The song which follows is Snow Falls (눈이 내리면). The arrangement is quite simple, a piercing kind of simple. Anyone who knows me knows that I am a sucker for a female lament. The story of the song as best as I can tell is of a woman whose husband (or lover) has departed (either for work or war I am not certain) and is not expected to return home until the snow flies. I simply interpret it as a woman's wish for the snow to come and be reunited with her man. Enjoy and Merry Christmas!

China believes South Korea "Drunk with Patriotism"

The Dong A-Ilbo filed a report citing several quotes from Chinese newspapers. Included is the line "Beijing 'has its means'” if Seoul does not listen to its advice. China is obviously not happy with the South Korean military drills. Interestingly they have yet to denounce North Korea's recent actions. China's only response is that the island shelling was "what happened in an exchange of fire at a disputed area.” In regard to recent activities an editorial from the Global Times says “The North`s international image is being quietly altered as it showed its calmness and restraint over the South’s military drill, while urging the South to think about whether it did not become the provoker."

The newspapers also say that South Korea must be "drunk on something" and that if Seoul will not listen to China that "new means" are necessary. In regard to South Korea's latest drill the editorial says that Seoul is "playing soccer on a dangerous cliff." The Chinese Global Times states "South Korean leaders might have the illusion that they suffered a lot from the North`s `provocation.` But do they understand that the North Koreans also had bitter pills to swallow when the South launched military exercises with the U.S. time and again?” and that South Korea's stance is "irrationally demanding."

The Chinese official news agency Xinhua states China's intention of degrading relations between the U.S. and South Korea. China believes that the latest rounds of drills and exercises are in the interest of the United States. Making a claim that the U.S. masks its interests by its alliance with South Korea.

The Dong A-Ilbo surveyed twenty experts on Chinese policy. Five say that a military clash is likely, twelve say it is not likely, and three say a fight is impossible.

China and South Korea are also currently having serious issues over fishing waters. A few days ago South Korea claims a Chinese fishing boat intentionally rammed itself into one of their coast guard vessels (it is said there is video evidence of this). Initially China took a hard line toward South Korea over the incident but has since eased off (potentially due to the video evidence). Three Chinese fisherman are being held and are expected to face criminal charges.

The latest words from North Korea are that they are ready for "A Sacred War based on a nuclear deterrent"

The latest words from South Korea's President are "tough actions enable us to keep peace, deter provocations and prevent war."

Christmas Tree Propaganda along the DMZ

I am beginning to believe that Korea does not want to be reunited. The North firmly believes that progress will only happen when the North and South deal with each other directly. The South doesn't seem to want to have a conversation unless others are involved.

The latest moves have been interesting. The South dared the North to attack again. The North now uses their lack of response to tell the world that they are the Korea who wants peace. North Korea has also offered to sell many of its nuclear fuel rods to the South. The South says they are just after money. I really do not want to believe this but could the South now simply have become greedy? Does South Korea not want to take on the economic burden the North has to offer? I certainly hope not but the wonder is growing.

In 2004 both countries signed a deal to stop propaganda along the border. The recent activities have now caused the South to shred that document. Yesterday, a giant Christmas Tree was erected on the top of a mountain along the border.
The tree is made of steel, is one-hundred feet tall, and has approximately 100,000 LED bulbs!! I understand Christmas is the season of excess for many but this seems ridiculous.

This tree will be in view of those in Kaesong (the joint industrial complex between the two countries). North Korea does not recognize Christmas as anything other than December 25th. They probably use the Lunar calendar so December 25th may not even be a known entity at all up there. What is the message sent? I can only imagine that it appears a giant, glowing middle finger to the 김저일 and an even larger mystery to the civilians and grunt military who see it.

My two final thoughts are that the South feels emblazened now and is possibly acting a bit recklessly. I hope that they ease off on the button pushing soon. Lastly, I call for the church in question to match the money they spend on electricity to a charity. The ludicrousness of the saga continues...