April 22, 2010

Education. At what cost?

I am and have been teaching in the private sector here. Undoubtedly this skews any cross section of children I have contact with. I think I can safely say I am involved mainly with the middle and upper classes. Upon reflection of the life of these children I would rather grow up poor.

Imagine a society where your IQ and test scores give you status. Entry to high schools and universities in Korea is largely best on standardized testing. How often I wished that the U.S. would give more credit to the brain than the wallet. Now I am immersed in a society that may do just that. As a rule a parent will invest all in a child here. A well to do parent's investment is rather extreme and scary.

It all begins around age four or five (which translates to three or four years old in the west). Kindergarten may possibly be the most freedom these kids will ever see. However, these kindergartens generally don't allow much play time. My former school kept kids in class from 9:30-2:30. The playground was a rarity as were field trips or out of class events. It was as if the children were being indoctrinated into the daily grind of adulthood. Some remained after regular classes for hours in special programs or extra classes. I understand this may have simply been a glorified daycare system for some but I cannot imagine eight hours a day away from my home at such a young age.

After graduating the relatively free world of kindergarten elementary school follows around age seven. Sounds great right? Well, maybe but consider classes now begin around 8:00 and run until nearly 4:00... Why not throw in a half day on Saturday as well. Education is important but this seems too big a load for a child. Here comes the big but, the word children loathe: ACADEMY. After daily classes end a series of private learning facilities continue the parental quest to have the smartest child. I will make a guess and say most children attend two to four private academies in the evening. The subjects of study are endless: English, Chinese, Robot, Art, Piano, Viloin, Taekwando, and even private supervised study rooms.

This will continue and expand in scope as the children progress through middle school. Where is the play time? How does a child really become well rounded without a little more social interaction? I am all for education but the situation in Korea borders on ridiculous. I am part of it and I do feel a bit ashamed. I assign a great deal of homework to please the parents but make sure that the kids can get 90% of it finished in class. I cannot place further burdens upon them. I do my best to teach with the goal of minimizing the stress and torture these children feel.


The public education system here seems more than enough. The final thought: Why can't a parent spend the evening teaching their children if it is so important to them? I can understand that the desire to learn English requires me. I cannot understand how a ten year old can spend twelve or more hours a day away from home attending school after school. Korea may find a social crisis will soon follow.

April 19, 2010

Violence in Korea

The question I am asked most about life in Korea is: Is it safe? Certainly Korea is very safe as far as crime goes. Guns and drugs are both highly illegal and I have never come across one of the two items of contraband. I never really felt unsafe in the United States but having been here for a year and a half I have never once felt threatened.

I have personally witnessed merely a few violent incidents since I have been here. The first was a man (boy) of around twenty years old repeatedly giving uppercuts to a boy maybe three years his junior. The younger boy did not even defend himself. He just sat on his knees and took the blows. I was amazed that no one stopped to help or even seemed to acknowledge the beating. I have a severe idiot streak and decided to intervene. I called the police and handed my phone to a girl walking by and then tapped the aggressor on the shoulder. This allowed the youth to escape. As I was dodging the inevitable punches that followed the girl had stopped a cab for me. I grabbed my phone and dove into the cab.

The next event was in a singing room. I was out to dinner with a lovely young local (no girlfriend action but damn she was pretty). After dinner we met my local friend "Jack" for some whiskey and singing in a local bar I frequented. The bartender was my friend and she was sitting next to me in the room. Suddenly in burst her husband who struck her fiercely in the face. I was flabbergasted and immediately stood up. Both of my friends instructed me not to escalate the situation. This would make the night much worse for the barmaid. I simply put my hands over my head and walked out the bar anticipating a strike from the husband. He did not swing with his fists. His tongue was the weapon for me. The worst part about it was that my friends both told me never to go back and never to contact her again. Jack had known her for years but their relationship ended that night. Several days later I defied them because I really wanted her to know I felt awful about the situation. A few weeks later her bar closed and I have since never seen her.

The final violent act is a repeat of the above incident and is all too common. I have seen it at least five times. A man striking a woman on the street. This appears to be entirely legal as males have relegated women to such a large degree. Sad but true, domestic violence in my opinion is quite rampant here. I won't even get into the story of the Korean man who proudly displayed his butcher knife to me. He was pissed off at the noise level of a party I was at and I beleive he had every right to be angry. Scraping the knife against the apartment door was a nice touch!

Consider 550 days in Korea and maybe a dozen blows to the head. I can get that at a hockey game in the U.S. The truth is Korea is remarkably crime free and I would say that living here without the fear of a gun being drawn is truly refreshing. I never lived with a constant worry in the U.S. but things became way out of hand a lot quicker back home. I have not spent any time in Seoul. It is possible that there things are different. However, life here for me has been truly liberating. The news and the streets are not full of murder.

April 17, 2010

Spark

Brilliant is the light that shivers at me -

- Occasionally through this haze of earthly woe.

In a glance it pierces my mist -

- Patched densely with compromise.

Transit diffuses this shiver's whisper -

- I remain, agape, reshaping my laws.

April 11, 2010

Tea: Ritual and Music

Da'ak - Green Aroma (Korean Creative Music Society)

Ritual tea ceremony began in China nearly 3,000 years ago. Our modern society has so many drugs, energy drinks, and artificial stimulants that simply cup of tea seems rather plain. Imagine yourself in ancient times and consider how consuming this natural substance powerfully alters your mind and body. In ancient times these tea ceremonies were used to reflect the order seen in the universe with the hope to infuse this stability into society.

In Korea ritual tea drinking began as part of an homage to ancestors or to Buddha himself. These ceremonies were 'nationalized' and actually formally codified in form in the fifteenth century. However, the tradition has lasted in most part due to the monks. The common rituals finally permeated the society as a whole and reached a golden age in Korea during the sixteenth century. It is very interesting to consider the formal aspect of drinking tea in Europe. Somehow ritualized tea drinking focuses on good manners; something as lost in this world as the ceremonies I speak of.

The ceremonies vary wildly in degree of formality but all adhere to the following rules: First, greet your guests and be sure to bow and announce the beginning of the ceremony. Next, heat water in a tea kettle and pour the water in the cups to be used. This simply preheats the wares so they do not distort the tea to come. When finished heating the equipment simply pour the water in a bowl. To brew the tea first spoon the appropriate amount into the kettle followed by hot water. The most important step after the tea is brewed is pouring the tea. Each cup must receive the tea in thirds. Pour one third into the first cup, then the second, and so on. Repeat with the second and third portion of tea. This ensures everyone receives a cup of equal strength. Before drinking ponder the color and smell. Always finish your first cup of tea before tasting the food. This ensures you taste the fullness of the brew without any invasion. Finally, wait to clean up until all guests have left!

The Korean Creative Music Society has put together an art program combining music, dance, and the ritual of tea drinking. I highly recommend checking it out if the troop comes to your city. Below is a video of a performance. I leave you in hope that you consider your next cup of tea something much than trivial.


May Day

5/4/09




The sky was weeping today -
Slow and steady, persistent.
Garbage and pollen melded.
Urban spring.

The concrete bleeds perfect green -
Slow and steady, persistent.
Foootsteps and tire tread deny it.

Seeds form rivers toward sewers -
Thick and mucky.
No soil, no hope, no purpose.

The city always changes -
A jackhammer, a sledge.
The sludge of life discarded.
Trees know.

April 6, 2010

Wired Korea

Korea is certainly tech and gadget crazy. Cell phones here have more bells and whistles and cost considerably less than in the U.S. For example, If I make two hours of interational calls back to the U.S. my charge will be around $30. When I was in the U.S. calling to Korea to finalize my current contract a little over thirty minutes somehow magically translated to over $600 in charges. Thanks AT&T, that seemed more than fair.

Aside from cell phones the internet is cheap and everywhere as well. I never bought a computer here. I prefer to go to internet cafes. The internet cafe, or pc room, costs a dollar an hour and comes with a cup of coffee. They are also open 24 hours a day. If you are ever in Korea you will notice the English letters PC quite often. Look specifically for PC방. Just walk inside, grab a card, and you are online. I frequent these establishments and what I really get a kick out of is the crowd.

In the afternoon the rooms are usually extremely noisy. Children yell and scream while playing various games as the sounds of KPOP blare throughout the room. I guarantee you will always be hip to the music of the youth. Late evening brings in the gamers. Wearing headphones they smoke cigarettes and get lost in the fantasy games of the day. I once sat next to a man passed out in a chair while his Warcraft character sat idly on the screen for over an hour. Late night brings in drunk older men playing online poker. It never stops. There are even PC rooms which offer a female companion. Another gateway to prostitution?Gaming is an absolute obsession here. In my town two television channels are dedicated to 24hour coverage of gaming and gaming competitions. A truly sad story about the game craze in Korea comes out of Suwon. A couple with a newborn spent their nights fueling an addiction to an online game. They forgot to feed their baby. At three months old their daughter died of malnutrition. The game they were playing, Prius, allows users to raise a young girl during the adventure.

April 4, 2010

Baek JiYoung (백지영)


In the fall of 2008 I began to explore Gwangju alone. I did not enjoy the foreigner hangouts and began to randomly enter bars with the hope that something interesting would occur. One night I entered a basement bar where a kind and beautiful woman was working and talking to a man from Seoul. He spoke English and we drank a few beers and had a good time. A week later I returned. The bartender ushered me into a small room where I met several local doctors (I have retained a strong friendship with one of them). These small rooms also had kareoke facilities. Many nights I had dinner with my friend and we would end up back at the bar singing songs and consuming vast amounts of alcohol. The bartender became my friend and often sang songs as well. This was my first introduction to the wondergirl Baek JiYoung.

Our hostess all too frequently drank too much whiskey and would grab the microphone and belt out 사랑안해 (I Won't Love). I became enamoured with the song and to this day it is my favorite. I then began to hear her 2008 single 총맞은것처럼 (Like Being Shot by a Bullet) everywhere. Her voice was so deliciously sultry. The emotion was thick in every lick she sang. Natives here would often ask me what I liked about Korea and my answer would be Baek JiYoung. The strange thing was the responses. Many if not most would respond negatively; claiming that they did not like her. However, her music was everywhere. How could this be so?

Scandal! A few years ago her ex-boyfriend released a sex tape of the couple. Even though she was unknowingly filmed her image was severely tarnished. This is the oddest part of Korea to me. Women here have to maintain an impeccable reputation. One false move and society scorns them. This is not just true for celebrities but for any given woman. The fact that Baek JiYoung has resurfaced and that her popularity is growing should give hope to the females here. Korea is slowly shedding its conservative restraints.

A few months later I noticed a truly sexy poster advertising soju in my neighborhood market. I was friendly with the owner and asked him if he could help me acquire one. He asked me if I liked Baek Ji Young. Yes - very much - oh my god is that her?? - holy crap - she is a knockout!!! I had been in love with her voice for some time and somehow the magic of life now presented me with such a tremendous image to go along with it. A few days later he gave me about a dozen of the posters as well as pens which bear the same image. What luck!
In August of 2009 I noticed a concert poster. Baek JiYoung was coming to Gwangju! Oh my, now I could die complete with the memory of her serenade performed at an intimate show just for me. She must have been waiting a long time to meet me. I was absolutely stoked!! I looked forward to the concert for a couple of weeks. Finally, the magical day came...

She would perform at a popular and fairly exclusive night club. I had already been in this club thanks to the aforementioned doctor group I befriended. So here we go -- Showtime!! I arrived at the club with a few friends dressed in my best duds. I was going to have the night of my life. I approached the door and was told to go away. No foreigners allowed. What?? No way. This can't be. I tried again and was told my shoes were ugly. My scheming mind beleived if I could make friends with some of the locals milling about maybe I could sit at their table. I schmoozed my way into a group which accepted me and after hearing my plea invited me to join them. OK, one more try. The doorman refused me again. The natives put up merely a mild protest and I was left dejected. I really do hope I find another opportunity to go to a show. I am not obsessed. Nope. No zealous mania here.

Anyhow I am back for another year and her success has continued. Hits like 내 귀에 캔디 (Ear Candy) permeate the soundscape here for me. Maybe, just maybe, someone will pass along my story to her and she will agree to have my children.

April 3, 2010

Anti-American Sentiment 2

Mr. Smallwood has responded to my previous rant: http://speakingkorea.com/?p=1432.


I consider myself a patriot of the United States of America. This requires me to speak out honestly and openly about any failings or wrong doings my mind perceives. While living in the U.S.A. I was more often (ignorantly) labeled as a communist. I am quite ashamed of my country's recent history and current path. I am very much against warring and I will not stop speaking my mind until the Earth is bathed in Peace. The only way for this to happen is to have free and truth based dialogues.

My prior post on this subject (http://mcvanderbockheimsteinski.blogspot.com/2010/04/anti-american-sentiment.html) was designed to refute Mr. Smallwoods original post on the subject of anti-American sentiment in Korea (http://speakingkorea.com/?p=1418). I aimed to blind myself to my own opinions about America and simply speak the truth as I know it. Mr. Smallwood claims that he did not intend to make an attack on America. I believe his emotions have blinded him to the words he has written. That is for you to judge. I do hold one opinion about our conversation: Repeated citing of Wikpedia is annoying and lazy. Dig deeper my friend. I know you are a journalism major and you should be held accountable.

I am happy to see that Mr. Smallwood has briefly requantified his stance to read that some Koreans hold anti-American sentiment. This is irrefutable (unfortunately later in his post he changes the word some to large amount). He further claims he never intended to praise Canada. This I accept and admit that my own passion on the subject skewed the matter at hand. Thankfully my Canadian cohort acknowledges his country's "little brother" status. This is a relief to me and allows further discussion. I am thankful for the knowledge that I am debating with an open minded individual.

I do not withdraw my comment "You were and are there too. The only difference is your numbers are small and the U.S.A. takes the heat of opinion." As an American, I feel responsible for my country's actions. It is my duty to speak and act out in any manner possible to avert bad behavior from my government. Feel free to use the pronoun toward me when speaking of America.

Now, my main beef. Mr. Smallwood throws the word occupy around liberally. I now take the time and pleasure to define the term. The following is cited from the Merriam-Webster online dictionary:

1 : to engage the attention or energies of
2 a : to take up (a place or extent in space) b : to take or fill (an extent in time)
3 a : to take or hold possession or control of b : to fill or perform the functions of (an office or position)
4 : to reside in as an owner or tenant

I assume definition 3a is the intended use of this word. The U.S.A. does possess or occupy military bases in Korea. It is impossible to claim we occupy the country. However, Mr. Smallwood may argue that definition 4 is his intended usage. I argue that the claim the U.S. is a tenant of Korea is false. America is paid to be here (http://www.wri-irg.org/fr/node/7314). I am well aware that this link (I could have chosen many other sources) also points out very clearly the reasons for anti-American sentiment here. I do not deny it. I am simply proving that the U.S. is not a tenant. 55% of the cost is paid for by Korea. The U.S. has no landlord in Korea. The American military is much more favored than a welcomed guest.

My emotional friend also claims that "America dictates Korean foreign policy". Do I need to get the dictionary out again? I can accept that the U.S. influences Korea but by no means dictates anything. The U.S. is here for a reason, that is certain. Many say that the U.S. is against the reunification of the two countries. I would like to point out that China is a large barrier in this as well. I don't want to get into a foreign policy debate. I am doing my very best to respond to Mr. Smallwood's words directly.

Which brings me to a sad point. It is really unfortunate that Mr. Smallwood says the following:

"As for anti-American sentiment, It would be completely impossible to deny there is a large amount of anti-American sentiment in Korea."

What happened to some?


April 1, 2010

Anti-American Sentiment

This post is a response to Stuart Smallwood's March 31st post on speakingkorea.com. The direct link to his post is http://speakingkorea.com/?p=1418 .

Anti-American sentiment is widespread on this planet. I most often understand the feelings and agree. I do not resent these thoughts from Europeans, Mexicans, Asians, or any other people on Earth save one nation. A country whose national anthem I adore singing. A country which has much in common with my American homeland. When I hear a Canadian give me or my country any flack my ire goes through the roof. I am not proud of much of American history but I consider myself a patriot. America upon its inception set upon the table a series of ideals. I believe they can be attained and still hold great hope for the U.S. and the world. Although the U.S. has many internal problems it is the only place on Earth where all races, creeds, sects, colors, and idiots interact on a mass level. If America can survive there just may be hope for Earth.

My personal rant quite possibly could have something to do with a man named Crosby scoring an overtime goal in an Olympic gold medal game.
Then again, there may be merit in the words which follow. I must now address Mr. Smallwood's belief and examples of anti-americanism in Korea. First, I would like to state that he is very brave to post his words. I must point out that Canada's peaceful existence and economic prosperity is almost completely due to the U.S.A. Alaska kindly buffered Canada from the Soviet expansion post WWII. Canada doesn't need a large army. Its neighbor to the south deters any would be trouble makers. The main lack of 'Americanness' Canadians posess is their name isn't number one on the list of western allies who fight wars. Canadian forces were subjects of the French and English and fought with them until the early 1900's. Canadian troops representing Canada fought in WWI, WWII, and the KOREAN WAR. Currently Canadian soldiers and volunteers serve NATO. You were and are there too. The only difference is your numbers are small and the U.S.A. takes the heat of opinion.

Mr. Smallwood's claim that the U.S. occupies Korea is ludicrous. To the best of my knowledge the U.S. is paid to have military bases in South Korea. As for U.S. support of Syngman Rhee, Canada also supported the conference which put him in power. I think we can all agree that WWII benefited Korea by eliminating the Japanese occupation. I think we can all agree that South Korea (defended by the U.S. and Canada in the Korean war) is better off than its northern neighbor. Mr. Smallwood's words in the section Things Learned on Hikes in the Mountain include that the U.S. "seems to have given support" in regard to a Korean government crackdown. Oh Canada, you are simply little brother in all of this.

Mr. Smallwood must be careful of the demographic he chooses to make his claims of sentiment. The age group 45-60 certainly does not represent any cross section. In my opinion those older than sixty are very much thankful to America (and little brother) for the efforts made in WWII and the Korean war. I firmly believe that the older generation in Korea loves America much more than most places in the world do. The youth seems to embrace American popular culture quite vehemently and ignorantly adores the United States. I too believe that America behaves like an "evil empire". How can you conveniently forget that Canada is along for the pillage?

I leave you with one final thought. Koreans obviously enjoy baseball much more than hockey. This in and of itself proves without doubt that Koreans prefer Americans.